Sunday, August 16, 2015

Cabaret


This summer, I was the associate costume designer for Cabaret for New Jersey Youth Theatre.  Most of the alterations were rather straightforward--take in pants, add some trim.  But one project stood out--Rigging this Leg Avenue costume to be able to fall off onstage for the "2 Ladies" number.











   

I started out by mapping my plans.  



 






















I'm taking the zipper out from the pin down.  I will be using it, so I'm not cutting it out.
















                           Zipper out.











I seam ripped in the front and I'm going to cut just above the white tie, not cutting the zipper.


No turning back now!!!





I have sewn the top to a pair of bloomers.  I cut away the elastic on the top of the bloomers.  The zipper tail that I didn't cut away is sewn down the back.  It is now a leotard!














Part 2--Rigging the skirt
 
Here, I am using satin ribbon to make a facing for the skirt.  Facing is fabric applied to a garment edge, on the inside.  This covers the raw edge.











 
Cut away elastic waistband on petticoat and tightly zigzag around crinoline at pin.

 

 

 

 

 

Cut away excess at zigzag.






 



Measure opening in back of skirt.  Mark on crinoline.  Zigzag opening on crinoline slightly larger and cut open.


 

 

 

 





Measure waist of skirt. The crinoline is much bigger. Pin tucks in and attach to grosgrain ribbon, making it the same size.


 

 

 


Sandwich petticoat in skirt, with facing as top layer, but don't pin in facing Stitch in preexisting seam on skirt btwn brown and green. Then hand stitch the facing down

 

 

                                    Realize that the petticoat needs to be shorter during pinning!

 

 

 


After fiddling with the petticoat, it is stitched in. Cut away excess.

 

 

 


 




Hand stitch down facing, making a sandwich with the petticoat.






 


All that's left is the snap in the back and rigging the bow! That pesky petticoat will need more shortening! That will be achieved by doing a fold in each layer and stitching it up.

 


 

 


Cut the apron string! Take the excess and put off to side. Stitch down end, with a little pleat to simulate a knot.

 

 

 

 

  






Stitch down the extra tie on end and stitch down the other side, so they touch.



 
Finally, tie a bow, Sew a snap and it's done!



Here is Yezenia in the costume. Our wardrobe supervisor, Maddie, is demonstrating how it will puddle on the floor when unsnapped.